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How to winterize pipes

Discussion in 'Homeowners Corner' started by Lioness2001, Dec 6, 2009.

  1. Lioness2001

    Lioness2001 New Member

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    I know this has probably been discussed before but I cannot seem to find it. Can someone post the instructions again? Thank you.
     
  2. Lioness2001

    Lioness2001 New Member

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    I meant the water pipes in the closet in the garage. We have done this each year, but we noticed there are two release valves and don't know which one to bleed. Both?
     
  3. Sasquatch519

    Sasquatch519 Member

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    Hopefully the valves have labels on the which tell you what they control, but even if they don't, it's not terribly hard to figure them out. Water pipes can be copper, but mine are PVC, and they are usually only about 1/2" diameter. The shutoff valves for the faucets in the garage and the back yard are in the utility room in the garage of my townhouse. I can look at the pipes and follow them up to the ceiling, and one turns towards the garage and the other heads to the back of the house, so that's how I can tell the difference. You just shut the valve off inside, then go outside and open the faucet and let all the water drain out. I only shut off the one in the back yard because the garage one is insulated well enough that it won't freeze and crack.
     
  4. Lioness2001

    Lioness2001 New Member

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    Hi - thanks for your email! WE did shut off the valve faucets in the garage and back yard in the closet. And we also turned off and moved the sleeves for both spigots in the backyard in the garage. However, the last step is to bleed the water off in the closet. The vavle for that is on the same line (pipe) as the two spigots in the closet. However, there's another release valve on a pipe that runs vertical to the one I just mentioned. It seems to have the main water line shutoff lever on it. In the past, I seem to recall bleeding that one as well, but last nite the water from THAT one just kept coming. Anyway, maybe my memory is foggy and we only need to bleed the one on the faucet line. What do you think? Many thanks.
     
  5. flynnibus

    flynnibus Well-Known Member Forum Staff

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    You generally will have

    - a main shutoff - recognized as the bigger one and everything branches from it down line
    - a hot water heater shut-off - can be seen on the feed normally coming from the top of the water heater
    - a shutoff for each outside hose bib you have - normally tagged
    - more if you have other fancy stuff in the house (hottubs, humidifiers, etc)

    Just trace the pipes as you see them if its not clear which is your outside bibs.

    To winterize simply...
    1) close the shutoff valve in the closet
    2) go outside, open the hose bib all the way and detach any hoses from the bib
    3) inside there should be a bleeder screw valve just near the shutoff valve. Open the bleeder screw

    The last step allows the remaining water in the line to drain back out of the pipe. You may get some dribbling or like from the bleeder after you open it as any water in the vertical pipe that can't drain outside comes back to you.
     
  6. Lioness2001

    Lioness2001 New Member

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    Hi - ok then we did it correctly and the other "bleeder screw valve" that we see on another vertical line (where the main shut off lever is located), should NOT be bled - is that correct? We opened the bleeder screw on the line with the two hose bibs. Thanks so very much for the info - appreciate it!
     
  7. KTdid

    KTdid Well-Known Member

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    Correct. Leave that one alone.
     
  8. Lioness2001

    Lioness2001 New Member

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    Thanks!!!!!!!!! :)
     
  9. boomertsfx

    boomertsfx Booyakasha!

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    I'd like to expand on this a bit... at least for my 2 hose bibb shutoffs -- I have a bleeder screw which I always loosened or removed and I thought that was enough, but the pipes still randomly froze.... turns out I had to take the whole bleeder cap off and then remove a small rubber plug (which was barely visible in the darker utility areas) under it and then I could hear the water flowing out... can't believe it took me 7 years to figure this out, but I'm sick of repairing burst PVC pipes and cutting into walls! I'm pretty sure it's not supposed to work this way... I guess usually the rubber stopper will stay inside the bleeder cap, but mine don't.
     
  10. flynnibus

    flynnibus Well-Known Member Forum Staff

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    did you not get water and air noises when you opened the bleeder screw? In my old townhome, it often made a mess when I opened the screws simply because the water can flow backwards and drain out the bleeder.
     
  11. Lioness2001

    Lioness2001 New Member

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    I don't see any rubber stopper per se. And yes, usually water sprays out for a small while and then stops.
     
  12. flynnibus

    flynnibus Well-Known Member Forum Staff

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    It's normally in the brass cap itself... as it's the 'plug' you are actually screwing into the hole to plug it. My guess is in boomer's case the rubber plug was just not extracting and was detached from the brass cap. So probably he'd turn the screw and the hole would not actually open up.

    In our M&S townhome, while we had PVC pipes for water, the hose bib pipes were all copper. In our VM home now, they are also all copper.
     
  13. boomertsfx

    boomertsfx Booyakasha!

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    yeah I wish ours were all copper :( I didn't get air noises when I twisted the caps which should have been the first sign, but I never followed up on that until we had another pipe burst this past year. I was a spiral crack in the PVC which was about 3' long ... I replaced it from the outside of the house by removing the siding and sheathing and insulating the heck out of it even though it probably doesn't need it unless you forget to turn off the bibb.

    Next task: replacing the water heater, that should be fun!
     
  14. flynnibus

    flynnibus Well-Known Member Forum Staff

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    we had the water heater go right as we were selling the house.. and while I was away on travel so msflynn had to deal with it. If your house isn't new enough, you may not have an expansion tank either, which is required now. So you'll have to add that which could be a space concern. Just FYI
     
  15. Lioness2001

    Lioness2001 New Member

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    We added the expansion tank due to the horror stories we had heard.
     
  16. boomertsfx

    boomertsfx Booyakasha!

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    We have an expansion tank (house built in 96) that failed (leaked) and I replaced that last year, so now I just need to get a torch and a new water heater I guess.

    Which reminds me of another thing.... how many of you flush out your water heaters? (Hook up a hose and drain it out) It's supposed to be done yearly I think. I flushed mine out because while filling our bathtubs we gots of little specks of debris. Since I've flushed it we havent had a problem.
     
  17. Lioness2001

    Lioness2001 New Member

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    I know we're supposed to, but so far we haven't.
     
  18. Mike-and-Kim

    Mike-and-Kim Member

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    Our was like that this year. Unscrewed the cap, nothing. Took off the little rubber bit: 1/3 of a bucket. Glad I read your post first, no head scratching involved.

    Mike
     
  19. flynnibus

    flynnibus Well-Known Member Forum Staff

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    Takes 5 mins - don't procrastinate what could cost you thousands of dollars.

    In my current house this is a PITA because of the pipe setup the entire pipes drain back out through the bleeder valve rather then out the bib... and they are basically behind the water heater, but you really don't want to deal with the alternative.
     
  20. KTdid

    KTdid Well-Known Member

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    It's probably a good time to winterize your hose bibs or to start thinking about doing it. :)
     

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