Home Repair Master Bath Shower Grout and Caulk

As others have found out, the shower door in the master bath is not the best. Well, in trying to fix it, I decided to continue and re-do all the caulk. I've taken down the entire door and decided to press on and take care of the mildew in the shower. There is some mildew where the shower wall meets the floor. Well, what I've discovered is that VM used both grout and caulk at any right angle. I'm not sure why since this does not seem to be normal practice. I've used flexible grout in corners but not both a "normal" grout and a flexible grout or caulk.

Anyway, has anyone else done this? I've got a grout remover that is removing the caulk and that's where the mildew is. Is it right to simply remove the caulk and then re-caulk? Or should I use only grout in the corners (that was my plan).

The simple fix of the shower door has turned into a lengthy project. However, I am looking forward to a mildew-free shower.

Thanks in advance.

 

I feel like you get a better seal in the corners with caulk than with grout. I had some cracks developing in the grouted corners in my shower so I just caulked over them.

 

I have the same issue...but am not skilled enough to fix it myself.... I am thinking of hiring somebody but really do not know who to go with.. any thoughts?

 

I redid the kid's bathroom about 3 years ago and used (epoxy) grout in the corners, just because it was easier.... my buddy just had his shower done at the time and the grout in the corners cracked within weeks. My corners still haven't cracked in 3 years... really happy about that. Usually the rule of thumb is if there is a change of plane you use sanded caulk/whatever.

 

there should be no grout in the corners, only caulk for the reasons already stated: grout is not flexible and will crack. Generally you don't want to caulk over grout because it may cause adhesion issues but I've done this if the grout is in good condition (and mildew free).

 

Thanks. They grouted and caulked just about every 90 degree angle and corners. The caulk is not cracked though.

Now, another issue. When I removed the shower door frame, one of the screws holding the frame to the wall was rusted so now I've ripped out some tiles and the drywall (yes, there is a section of the shower that used drywall instead of cement or blueboard) is wet and paste like. The steel stud under the dray wall is rusted as is the corner bead. Argh!

So, as I replace the tile I'll want to use cement board or blueboard for the drywall I'm ripping out (about a 6 x 36 inch strip). Anyone have any extra lying about that I can buy rather than buying a full 2 x 4 ft sheet (or larger)?

Next time, I'll just let the shower door stay stuck!