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Maple Trees diseased?

Discussion in 'General Chat Forum' started by JJB, Jun 26, 2007.

  1. JJB

    JJB Active Member

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    One of the Maple Trees Van Metre planted for us appears to have some sort of disease. The top of the crown has lost its leaves and it seems to be working its way down the tree from the top. This happened to one of the other trees the builder put in and they replaced that one. Since we are beyond the one year warranty, I doubt they will replace this one. In looking around the neighborhood, it appears many of the maples are loosing their leaves at the top. Does anyone know what is causing this and can these trees be saved?
     
  2. woopity

    woopity cdubs ya know!

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    it is japanese beetle season...so i know they've started eating everything.

    We have a lilac tree in our backyard that's had some problems with leaves wilting and dying---although something appears to have been eating that for the last month as well. The month we went without rain in the april/may timeframe played havoc with it think.
     
  3. BellaRu

    BellaRu Member

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    Japanese beetles do not generally feed on maple trees. If you are seeing die back from the top down, with wilted/browning leaves, this is a sign of drought stress. Our area has experienced several degrees of drought over the last three years, and this can be damaging to any tree.

    I am guessing your maple is a Red (Oct. Glory or Red Sunset) - which prefers moist, well drained soils. Regular watering can be very helpful. For the first three weeks, water it every day, morning is best. The best method is to let the water come out of the hose at a slow trickle, set it at the base of the tree trunk, and let it go for about 3 hours. This will allow for a nice, slow soaking, without run off, or water waste.

    After three weeks, back off your watering to every other day. During the heat of the summer, stay on that schedule. Once we get into fall, and hopefully cooler temps and regular rainfall, back it off to twice a week. Even older, mature trees need regular watering during hot, dry spells. After the tree goes dormant (looses its leaves) - stop watering. In the spring, when the buds just begin to pop, start watering again, twice a week. Let weather conditions be your watering guide, as it gets hot and dry, step up your watering. Edit- This water schedule is for stressed/drought damaged trees. If your trees appear generally healthy, then stick to twice a week. If you arent sure, or have questions, contact a reputable tree company that employs certified arborists.

    Drought resistant/tolerant plants are a myth. Every plant needs water, especially landscape installed plants.

    If you want more information on maple trees in general, go to google, type in Acer rubrum (botanical name) and follow the links to information.
     
  4. sharse

    sharse TeamDonzi rocks!!

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    JJB - since we're on the same street, I'm guessing your maples were planted about the same time as mine were, and they're in your back yard, not your front. Oh, and I suspect they're not red. Many of our neighbors have trees that look like you have described -- losing top leaves, etc. Mine, I'm happy to say, is very healthy. I took great care to water it (and water and water and water) when it was first planted to get it established. (Of course that doesn't really help you now.) I have also fertilized regularly. We have a sprinkler system so it continues to get regular water.

    Anyway, my suggestion at this point would be to water, water, water, water, water that thing. And fertilize if you haven't. Maybe it's not too far gone and that will bring it back.

    If all else fails, and someone I hope will correct me if I've got my facts wrong here, I do think that Van Metre has to keep all of these trees living before they can turn us over to VDOT. So you may, if it's REALLY far gone, have luck in getting it replaced because the county will require it.
     
  5. sharse

    sharse TeamDonzi rocks!!

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    Oh... one more thing... there is a user on the boards here, Karlene, whose husband is an arborist. Maybe a PM to her would be a good idea? Just a thought.
     
  6. BellaRu

    BellaRu Member

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    Sharse- water water water is the right thing to do. Although I would not recommend fertilizer application on a tree that is stressed. It is best for the culture/health of the tree to take up water on a regular basis. Instead of fert, I would recommend a Mycorrhizal Fungi application. See below for information - it is far more beneficial than a short term boost of fert.

    Mycorrhizal fungi are root-inhabiting, symbiotic fungi that colonize the fine absorbing roots of more than 95 percent of the land plants in the world. These fungi colonize trees and other plants to get the simple carbohydrates or sugars they need. In return, the fungi extend 'feeding tubes' called mycelia far into the soil. This increases the surface area of the roots, improving absorption of water and essential mineral elements which are shared with their host plant. Some forms of mycorrhizae can increase the absorptive surface area of root systems by more than 700 percent when compared to nonmycorrhizal roots.

    Try Merrifield Garden Center for this product, or order online - always follow package directions.

    Again - Google is a good source of info.


    p.s. - I'm a certified arborist
     
  7. sharse

    sharse TeamDonzi rocks!!

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    Cool! Also, in looking out my wondow today, the trees I see that are hurting the most around her are actually oaks... mostly pin oaks. Most of the maples look OK.
     
  8. KTdid

    KTdid Well-Known Member

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    BellaRu

    As a certified arborist, can you recommend a a strong branching tree that would provide hefty limbs to hold a bird house or bird feeder and still provide some ornamental interest either in the spring or winter with interesting bark or leaf color?

    I'm was toying with the idea of planting another crepe myrtle (satchez) I think, but didn't think it offered the branch form I am looking for and the tree would abut the common property line adjacent to the wooded area. This is one corner that gets sun over six hours a day.

    Any advice would be appreciated.
     
  9. JJB

    JJB Active Member

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    Thnx for the input guys!
     
  10. BellaRu

    BellaRu Member

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    KTdid-

    Crape Myrtles are always nice, a tough tree with pretty flowers and great bark. (The variety name is Natchez, white flower).

    But from what you describe, you need a stronger, more horizontal branching tree to support the feeders.

    Here is a good list that will do what you want, and provide nice interest.

    Yoshino Cherry (same as the Tidal Basin in DC- the great standard light pink blooms)
    American Sweetgum (shade tree, gorgeous fall color, great bark)
    Sawtooth Oak (underused and one of the very best shade trees on the market - plus they have really cool acorns with almost furry tops. Neat to have if you are interested in back yard wildlife.)

    Japanese Snowbell (Delicate white flowers, very pretty. a small to medium sized tree, not a big shade tree type. Its something very different.)
    American Yellowwood (Really neat shade tree, bright green leaves. white flowers, bees love it so keep it away from high traffic areas. They have nice fall color - one of my favorites. Botanical name- Cladrastis kentukea, give it a try under google, go to images, so you can see it.)

    You can always go to the old stand bys- Pin Oak, Red Maple, Willow Oak.

    South Riding Nurseries has a great selection, they are located on Rt. 50 in south riding.

    A quick note about feeders- please remember to adjust the wire, or string or other fasteners every spring, to keep the tree from girdling, or growing around it.

    As always - water new plantings for the first 3 years to get them established and healthy. Monitor after in drought conditions to keep them happy.

    Let me know if you need more info. Happy planting!
     
  11. KTdid

    KTdid Well-Known Member

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    BellaRu:

    My goodness - what an extensive list of trees! I'll look them up. Thank you.
     
  12. foodie

    foodie New Member

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    KTdid and others--

    When we built our home--beyond Leesburg--several years ago, we looked at trees and other landscaping plants at Greenworks Nursery & Landscaping in Chantilly, VA (near South Riding neighborhoods). We found the staff knowledgeable and most helpful.

    We had our trees delivered with other landscaping plants and shrubs. Great selection of all landscaping needs (over 12 acres) of plants, etc.

    Web site is--

    www.greenworkslandscaping.com (Greenworks web site and info.)

    Happy Digging--

    Foodie
     
  13. Renaldo

    Renaldo New Member

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    BellaRu, may I disagree with your sweetgum recommendation.

    It's because of those durn porcupine eggs they drop all over ;)

    If I may, I'd also like to add Redbud to the list. The native tree has pink to purple spring flowers.

    'Forest Pansy' varities have purple leaves and are covered by purple flowers before leafing out in spring.

    Both varities go 20 to 30' tall and like moist soil so they're perfect for depressions that retain water a little longer than the rest of the yard.

    Do be sure to buy locally grown trees if you get one. Zone 8 trees may have difficulty in zone 4 and vice versa.
     
  14. Renaldo

    Renaldo New Member

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    BellaRu, may I disagree with your sweetgum recommendation.

    It's because of those durn porcupine eggs they drop all over :rolleyes:

    If I may, I'd also like to add Redbud to the list. The native tree has pink to purple spring flowers.

    'Forest Pansy' varieties have purple leaves and are covered by purple flowers before leafing out in spring.

    Both varieties go 20 to 30' tall and like moist soil so they're perfect for depressions that retain water a little longer than the rest of the yard.

    Do be sure to buy locally grown trees if you get one. Zone 4 trees may have difficulty in zone 8 and vice versa.
     
  15. Brassy

    Brassy Hiyah

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    We bought at double weeping cherry tree from Home Despot for $99 in late May. It had long branches almost to the ground. We planted it, fertilized and watered many times, but it appears to be dead.

    Of course, we didn't keep the receipt, and HD said we could bring it back for an exchange! Ha, so do we dig it out and drop it rootball and all over there?

    Bella Ru,

    We also planted 3 -5 foot American Arborvitae last November, first they stressed due to over watering (our neighbor behind is is higher up and they have a sprinkler system) and now show drying out.They still have not really put roots into the soil very much. We have one huge Arborvitae in the corner of our yard, that was planted in a built up way so it has survived for 2 years and looks healthy. (the yard also slopes down so the high side isn't good for much...)

    I would rather put in 2 large Nellie Stevens hollies. I believe they do not have to be trimmed much to keep their shapes. How do they grow in this kind of soil we have here? I figure I need 2 for berries to grow and the tree stature and leaf color would be great in the back bed.
     
  16. Dawne

    Dawne HOA Sec/Treas, Tech Comm

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    I'll chime in here with a vote for the Red Bud - a beautiful tree if you're looking for color in the spring, large leaves for some shade in the summer, and a fairly quick grower...

    Though a little slower growing, the Silver Linden we put in the back has an exceptional shape. It's very symmetrical, and seems to grow with a wider tendency than many others. The "Silver" is the back side of the leaves, which flicker in the wind - very nice.

    Note - In the "quality top soil" (read bleck!) that's around our houses, it'll take a new tree a couple years to really get going. If you're planting it, make the initial hole a LOT larger than what's called for. Give it a good hole to start growing before it runs into the "Marine Clay" around the yard.

    Water, water, water....on the slow drip method. Becuase we regularly watered and fertilized (tree spikes are great if you're lazy), our trees are twice the size of some of our neighbors (8 years later).
     

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