Basement - Steel Studs?

I think I've decided to finish my basement using steel studs. The purist in me says "use wood" but the practical in me says "step into the new century." Plus, I saw that one of our neighbors used steel stud and the job he did came out beautiful and he said it was easier than wood.

A couple of questions:
1) How do you fasten them to the basement floor? I will probably use a Ramset but do I need a sheathing underneath the steel studs to prevent rusting?
2) While I will be getting a permit, I'm thinking that I'll actually do most of the framing since they only inspect after the inspection anyway. That way I'll be able to really submit an as-built plan as opposed to a plan that may change as I build out the walls. Any thought on this?
3) Where would I put the firestop or do I need any? I can't really see what I would gain by putting a piece of gypsum or rock wool only where I build the walls as opposed to everywhere (unless the ceiling provides the firestop function). If I do need it, how do I fasten it outside of the wall framing I'm building?

Thanks in advance.

 

Not certain about items 2 and 3. However, when we had a contractor build out our basement he used metal studs too. What he did was install a metal footer into the concrete floor. Basically a u-shaped track that he "nailed" to the concrete. The studs could then sit in this track and be screwed into this track.

"Nailed" = Used TE-12 Hilte Gun to punch nails through footer and into concrete.

qzpmal

 

Do you mean "since they only inspect after completion anyway"?

 

They will check for firestops. Also, before putting the walls up check around the base plates for opportunities to enhance the insulation. I used two full rolls of insulation and a case and a half of caulk doing this. I am glad I did, it made a huge difference.

 

Is there a large price difference? Van Metre has gone back to framing with wood studs in the new section near Glebe View/Broadlands Blvd.

From an ease of hanging items standpoint, I still prefer wood.

 

Thanks to all.

sharse - yes, I meant completion
afgm - I'm still confused on how I would install the firestopping material. Do I install prior to framing? Gypsum is acceptable but how do I put that up? Do I screw it into the ceiling joists and do I need to do that around the entire perimeter?
southernwalkres - I prefer wood also but metal will be easier, quieter, no saw dust, and cheaper. I'll just have to buy more sheet metal screws when hanging things on the wall. I do plan on using wood where I'll need some structural support.

Thanks in advance.

 

Firestops:

I first insulated all areas I could reach; then I framed the entire area. I then went between the studs and filled in with drywall on areas around the top ; it wasn't always pretty, but I always made sure a seal was made between stud wall, foundation wall and areas going up. I don't think it was necessary but I also caulked all these pieces of drywall to make a seal. Hard to really explain, as each piece was different and depended on the configuration. Does this help?

 

afgm:
Do you have any pictures that you might have taken during your project that you could forward my way? I am still pretty stumped by this.

Thanks in advance.
Rich

 

I'll try and paint a picture, as I am not sure my pictures reveal the firebreaks. If this doesn't work, I'd be glad to chat with you on the phone. Everything is now enclosed, otherwise I'd be glad to show you.

Imagine a stud wall against the foundation wall. This wall will most likely be a few inches away from the foundation in several locations, due to the uneveness of the foundation wall.

To install a firebreak I used drywall. I installed the drywall pieces (all custom cut) in between the studs parallel with the ceiling. When I custom cut each piece I would "notch" the backside of the piece. This notch would cup around the backside of the 2x4. The entire custom cut piece of drywall would line up very snuggly with the foundation wall. I nailed or screwed the custom piece right to the bottom side; of the top header piece; of the stud wall.

I now had an installed "firebreak" in between the studs that ran along the back of the foundation. It also cupped around the 2x4's giving me a surface to match against when I installed the next and adjacent custom cut firebreak.

I also caulked all the joints between the custom cut firebreaks and caulked along the foundation and the custom cut firebreaks.

The idea is to make a pocket floor to firebreak. This pocket will be behind the eventually installed drywall walls.

You'll inevitably have to get creative in a few areas. What the inspector will be looking for is a "pocket" that will somehow slow down any fire that starts. A fire that may want to crawl up between the stud wall and the foundation.

As a note, I also installed insulation between the studs. I am sure you'll want to do the same.

On another note, I spent a lot of time research and asking for opinions about putting in a plastic barrier behind the stud walls. A plastic sheathing that would seal the foundation. There are two schools of thought. Both make sense. I concluded it was best not to put up a plastic seal. The main reason being I did not want to seal in the foundation and then have it "sweat". Then the sweat would have no way to evaporate, and then could eventually mold. Others will say it's best to seal it. Personal preference.

Hope this helps.

 

p.s. in reference to my 2-12 post...when I said I insulated first I meant that I insulated the foundation to the base plate, not insulated between the studs. You'll want to insulate it before you put up your walls. I had an extensive amount of open air leaks in this area. It was well worth the effort.

 

afgm: Thanks, that helped tremendously. That sounds like a lot of work but sounds very doable. That also makes it clear that I can/should frame first, the install the firestopping material.

One final question (well, maybe a final question) - did you use one layer of drywall or two? I'm assuming that it might need two 1/2 inch layers but hoping I can get away with only one.

My foundation is already insulated top to bottom so I'm going to call that good. I do plan on putting insulation in the basement ceiling mostly for sound proofing.

 

Please do not put put insulation in for soundproofing is does very little good.

Rockwool is better. Also putting special sound boards on first then drywall is better but expensive. There also special spacers that you attach to the bottom of the floor joist then attach the drywall to them. Two layers of drywall is better then using insulation but rock wool is still better and it is also used for fireproofing. Air is the best way to slow sound down. Sound is vibration and travels (vibrates) through many solid materials easier then traveling through air. That is why we use a double wall system when we do multi family very effective for the cost. Floating a room within a room is how we do recording studios. the continuous air space is extremely effective. Of course I am way over simplifying what is done in these studios because there is way more involved then stopping sound.

Don't forget any little hole the sound will find it and travel through it. Such as wires and plumbing are a few examples. Rock wool is a bang bang for the buck but you will still hear footsteps on hard surfaces above and it is not totally soundproof but way better then fiberglass insulation.

I would foam in any cracks or small holes around the exterior of the basement for added protection from exterior air infiltration. A lot of work but well worth it.

Lee

 

Afgm is correct. The inspector is looking for any place fire can pass between the floors, including around the plumbing, wires, ducts etc. It is not that difficult just a little time consuming. Also you need to fireproof that little space between the exterior frame walls and the concrete walls against the ceiling. Like afgm says there most likely be an inch or two between the frame wall and the concrete wall. All that space at the ceiling needs to be blocked in with drywall, rockwool even inch thick wood. Every crevice between the two floors must be sealed.

Lee

 

I did not use two layers of drywall. Not sure why it would be necessary.

As Lee notes, rockwool is very handy, I used it for several places that drywall just wouldn't work.

I took down all the existing insulation that was installed by the builder on the foundation wall. I did this for two reasons. One I wanted to make sure any structural issue weren't covered up. Secondly, I wanted to get the wall as close to the foundation as possible for as much room as I could. I ended up using all the insulation I took down around the base plate between the first floor and the foundtion.

If you plan on leaving the existing insulation, it's still cheap, and worth it to fill in the studs with insulation. Double insulation wouldn't hurt anything and won't cost that much.

Lee is right insulation in the ceiling doesn't do anything for sound.

p.s. I highly recommend you remove the existing insulation. The builder may have done that to cover up something. My brother-in-law found a large crack that needed to be repaired when he pulled his off.