Home Security System

Hi,
We are an authorized Monitronics dealer and we use top of the line Honewell equipment if you are interested reply to this post and we can give you a no obligation demo and you can see for yourself. Our web is www.freehousealarm.com or call 866-704-FREE(3733) to schedule an appointment.
Thanks for viewing
Billy

 

Just wondering if there was any new thoughts on alarm companies? I see alot of Vector around the neighborhood but haven't decided on who to go with yet.....

 

We went with ADT and are happy with it. I imagine they all pretty much use the same types of equipment and offer similiar services.

I would wait for a really good deal (check it out to see if it really is a good deal) and gopher who ever has the best deal

 

Some advice from someone who works in the physical security industry providing security and monitoring services to agencies and enterprises.

1. Read the list of equipment specified VERY carefully. Most companies will advertise a 'free' system that provides no improvement over good locks. They then teach the reps to 'upsell' you onto what you actually need for increased security, also making it hard to comparison shop as they all use similar high-pressure sales techniques to get a signature before they leave, because they know the likelihood of a deal after that is virtually zero.

2. Read the contract with the the monitoring company VERY carefully. For example, can/will they sell the monitoring contract on? (MANY do, and they don't usually need your permission to do so) which can quickly turn into a nightmare as you can end up being 'monitored' by "two men in a garage LLC". Also, check out BBB and other consumer forums regarding comapnies' contract cancellation 'problems', you will be appalled at the standard practices of many apparently reputable vendors on this front, with them using tactics varying from obfuscation to outright lying to extend contracts for months and even years while no longer offering any service at all.

3. Ask them what they offer in terms of support for Verified Response. Because 93-98% of all alarm calls are false alarms (from a DoJ Study 2006/7), most jurisdictions now use procedures that mean that unverified burglar or fire alarms get a) no response at all, b) responded to "when we can get to it", or c) we'll respond but we'll fine you when it (probably) turns out to be a false alarm.

By the way "we'll call you to check if someone is breaking into your house" isn't actually all that useful a response, yet that is what most of these guys offer. If you ask for something better than that they will probably start selling you on "video-based verification" and your off to the races on being massively upsold again.

My advice: invest in good solid locks for your doors and windows (particularly patio doors), deploy motion-sensing lighting where you may have a vulnerability (for example if you back onto woods) and get into the habit of checking that the place is properly locked down before you go to bed.

Remember, you don't have to be the fastest gazelle in the herd when the lions are on the prowl, just don't be the slowest.

 

How about putting a sign in your front laws saying "My next door neighbour keeps large amounts of cash in their house " with an arrow?

snicker

 

I agree with nutria. Start with very good locks. Research them. Not all expensive locks are good, find out WHY the locks are good. I've personally seen a young person defeat a $250 medeco lock in about a minute.

I remember I got locked out my first week in SouthernWalk and was able to open the door with my credit card. Since then I got pad locks on all my doors. Think about putting those door charm alarm on the back doors and doors to the garage. Noise and lights may scare away any would be burglar. Start with the basics.

 

We installed ours ourselves, hardwired completely. No false triggers, took some time to figure out programming but just like we want it, including garage doors so we don't leave them open at night. No batteries to change.

The coolest thing is the talking remote we got which speaks the system status after arm/disarm.

It triggers an extra alarm siren (delayed slightly after the small siren) that is extremely loud, I designed a separate power supply and interface for that.

System based around a honeywell vista 20p from aesecurity.com online, great service. The nice thing about the honeywell is that although somewhat complex (not to mention poorly documented) once figured out you can make it just like you want.

Next thing is to integrate with the lutron wireless lighting system, and the fire alarm system.

Mike

P.S. I'm an electrical engineer but I think with a bit of planning it could be done on your own.

 

I saw an ADT alarm which was quite basic (wall unit), a friend of mine in Cascades has Brinks which was very nicely done around a Honeywell (control panel + keypad). That is only 2 data points.

Also, there are websites which compare ADT to Brinks. It pays to do some research.

http://www.alarmsystemreviews.com/adt-vs-brinks.html

Mike

 

How tough was it to hardwire your system? Are there any books out that that can explain how to do it to a layperson like me?

Every system we looked at was wireless and I still like hardwired systems but they can be hard to retrofit.

When I install my security camera system (with the laserbeams, fougas and grenade launchers...yes I will be submitting an application) I would prefer a hardwired system but am a little unsure at the optimum way to retrofitting that into out house.

 

A few years ago I worked on a project with some parties where they wanted to have 'automated interdiction' for certain sensitive areas. I.e. the system positively detects 'targets of interest' (people or vehicles) using multi-modal sensors, tracks them as they approach (day or night, even through trees) and then activates and controls an 'interdiction device' to remove the threat if they cross a given (but invisible) line. I didn't know whether it was more scary that the agency concerned were excited about doing it or that it was (and remains) completely feasible to accomplish....

So be careful what you wish for!

 

Vintage Security offers a basic wireless system for $300 installed. A basic system is 4 door contacts, 1 motion detector, 1 keypad and siren. Vintage Security uses GE Electronics.

A basic hardwired system is typically $200 installed. This applies to homes where there is unfinished basement space allowing access to retro-fit the wiring. If the basement is completely finished an appointment would be needed to evaluate the degree of difficulty in retro-fitting a hard wired system and additional labor charges can be quoted at that time.

Vintage Security offers monitoring at the rate of $288/year with a 5 year contract or $312/year with a 3 year contract. Additionally there are extra incentives to signing a 5 year contract.

Vintage Security will not sell your monitoring contract. There are safeguards set up in call-back procedures as well as system programming to reduce false alarms. And a technician is available by phone 24/7 - 365 for support. Maintenance plans can also be purchased allowing you free parts and labor for after hours service calls. The original system is warrantied for one year with free part replacement and labor during business hours.

Additionally there are other features available allowing you to access your system remotely via the internet. For example - disarm the system from your hotel while on vacation to allow dog walkers, housekeepers, etc entry and rearm your system when they leave. You could also assign others their own PIN number and you can monitor who is arming/disarming via the internet.

Feel free to call with any questions.

Nathan
571.238.6745

 

Ozgood, I'd say it took us 8-10 hours to wire the the house including the entire basement and garage. We have an unfinished basement so that was a big help. However, the garage is finished.

No idea on the books. I'd say it could be wired with a basic knowledge of electronics, the pain was the programming. Kim (who is in banking, not electronics) programmed most of it. If in doubt, the manuals can be downloaded online, there is also quite a bit of info in forums on the 20P as it is a popular control panel.

Vista 20P with backup battery, control panel was the main cost around 209. Transceiver and remote around 150 I think. The remote that speaks back the status was more around 100. Motion used K-band radar and IR Honeywell 7435 around 50 ea. Magnetic sensors are inexpensive.

Mike

The remotes have extra buttons that can be combined using the relay cards to interface to other systems (e.g. lighting, garage doors etc).