Question about tree

Okay, I am definitely NOT an expert on trees, but maybe one of you out there in B-land is...
I have a large tree in my front yard that was put there when our house was built. The other trees that are in front of houses on the rest of the street have gotten A LOT larger and leafier (is that a word), but ours has remained a "medium" size tree and the leaves actually fall off on one side. Is there something I can do to help it out? My husband really wants a leafy tree and a large tree on the front lawn, but I hate to go to the expense of a new tree if we can help out the one we have.
Any suggestions would be great!
One quick thing...our yard is FULL sunlight for most of the day, so I don't know if that has ANYTHING to do with it.
THANKS!
Jennifer

 

Re: Question about tree?

moffat5 and others--

For gardening, trees, or landscaping questions--check out the local Loudoun County Extension Office in Leesburg (across from the Leesburg Post Office). There are Master Gardeners who offers FREE advice and plant/tree clinics. Also, there are tons of FREE publications at the lobby entrance.

Web site is below--

www.loudoun.gov/extension (Loudoun County Extension Office's site/info.)

Foodie

 

Jennifer, in general I'd say it needs a lot of water. I think you are in SW as we are so our trees are all pretty new. I watered the heck out of my trees since the day they were planted and mine are much fuller, healthier and leafier (as you say) than most on my street. Figure out what kind of tree it is and fertilize ASAP. (Don't fertilize in the fall when the temps drop.) Also, water, water, water, making sure the water gets deep enough to really get the roots established. 10 minutes here and there will do nothing.

 

The type of tree is important to know, before doing anything. Water water water is always the key to the health of any plant. Fertilizing right now will not help a stressed tree/shrub. Plants are not utilizing the material, and if it is stressed, additional fert will force it to produce new growth, when it should be focused on recovering/restoring a healthy root system. Fertilizer should only be applied in Feb/Mar, right before a tree leafs out. The tree utilizes the materials far more effeciently, and that is the time of year it needs sugars and water.
Take a pic, or describe it here, and I will try to help you.

 

We have three of the same kind of tree (I mean same as each other, London Plane) and they are like papa bear, mama bear, and sickly weak baby bear. The best one, which is about twice the size and much leafier than the worst, is the one I planted a garden around, with lots of additional topsoil and mulch. The worst of them is right next to the sidewalk and has roots coming up to the surface. I walked the yard with a Master Gardner and she said those roots are looking somewhere-anywhere for some nutrients. The dirt under the sidewalk is nutrient-poor. She suggested I add a garden bed to include that tree, so it can seek out nutrients on the non-sidewalk side. Just passing the info on, not an expert myself.

 

What normally happens in a new home situation, the ground is essentially sterile. Clay, rock and other back fill have no real organic matter to it. That was stripped off long ago, and not replaced. It has to be put back. Compaction is another evil of trees and plants. The surrounding soil becomes so compacted, air, water and nutrients can not penetrate, getting to the root zone of plants where it is needed. Plants need natural organic matter to be successful. Chemical fertilizers dont necessarily do that.
Worms, aeration, and good doses of smelly, organic soil amendments are the best way to improve the health of your trees.

 

I would be willing to bet moffat is describing a Maple tree. That is very common in the front yards. For single family homes, the other variants I think are most common in SW are the Cherry trees, planted usually closer to the house and then the Crepe Myrtle varieties as well. But from her description, I am going with Maple (and I am betting ice cream at BellaRu's house!)

 

I echo Bella' post #6.

The biggest mistake I see is the mound of dirt/mulch at the base of most of the trees in our area - this can cut off air and have rain water drain away from the root ball.

During the installation of our landscaping, we had the "mounds' removed and a well (kind of like a saucer) created at the base of each of our street trees.

• Water (forget those gator bags they can smother the roots),
• Fertilzer - we use Ironite & Liquid Iron (by Bodine) for our evergreens Hollytone
• prune dead branches - but make clean cuts so the tree can heal the wound properly.

The Proof - look down ridgeway - when you get to claiborne - our trees are at least triple the size (two are now completely covering the 2nd story bedroom windows). Bella and disagree about the 2nd fall fertilizing and that okay - just make sure you fert at least once a year (Early Spring is the best time)